Week 458 · Jardin Majorelle · Medina · Jemaa el-Fna · La Mamounia
For the logistics to work to fly to Fes, we split the Marrakesh portion of the trip and had two different experiences. On entry to Morocco, we spent just over a day in the suburbs near the airport and then after returning 4 days later we stayed in the Medina in a small Riad.
Marrakesh is a very old city, but the suburbs developed in the 1900s were modelled after a French style with parks and wide streets named after rulers. After our initial arrival — pretty low key after 12 hours travel — we walked locally. Early the next day, we went to Jardin Majorelle, a garden built originally in the 1930s which fell into disrepair and was revitalised by Yves Saint-Laurent. Definitely a destination for those seeking to be Instafamous — we joined in to take pictures as well.
Jardin Majorelle was created by French painter Jacques Majorelle beginning in 1923, who spent 40 years developing it into a botanical garden around his studio. After Majorelle's death, the garden fell into neglect and was slated to become a hotel — until fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé purchased it in 1980 and funded its restoration. The distinctive cobalt blue colour used throughout — known as "Majorelle Blue" — was patented by Jacques Majorelle. When Saint Laurent died in 2008, his ashes were scattered in the garden's rose garden. The garden now houses the Berber Museum and Yves Saint Laurent Museum (MYSLM), opened in 2017. It receives over 900,000 visitors annually, making it one of Morocco's most visited sites.
When we arrived in Marrakesh on the first trip there was no Uber so we took a taxi. The signs were for fixed price $7 for local and $10 for the Medina — but no one would agree to $7 and after arguing with several people and fighting through the crowds we ended up paying $20 for a 10-minute ride. So I used booking.com to arrange our future airport transfers — worked great. On the return trip, had a person waiting at arrivals with our name on a placard for $15 to the Medina.
Once we got into the maze, a guy came by to "help" — grabbing our bags and taking us to our Riad. After 3 right turns and a couple of minutes, it was clear he was walking in circles. We told him the right direction and pointed him towards the Riad. Then he demanded $20 for his services — I said all I had was $5, he said he wouldn't take it as it was an insult. So I kept my $5. He chased me down and said he'd give me a discount of $10 — I said $5 take it or leave it. He stormed off. Our hotel confirmed it was a hustle and I shouldn't have given him more than $2 from our drop-off point. Once we learned the route — it was a 1-minute walk.
He demanded $20 for his services after walking us in circles. I said all I had was $5 — he said he wouldn't take it as it was an insult. So I kept my $5.
He chased me down and said he'd give me a discount of $10. I said $5, take it or leave it, and asked why he walked us around in circles. He stormed off.
Our hotel confirmed: it was a hustle. I shouldn't have given him more than $2 from our drop-off point. Once we learned the route — it was a 1-minute walk.
We stayed at Dar One — technically across the street from the Medina and between the Bahia Palace (built in 1800s) and the Badi Palace (built in the 1500s). Really great location. The hotel manager was very helpful and set us up with dinner reservations and a tour guide for the Medina. Since we had a tour guide for the next day, we visited the two local palaces — both worth a visit. We both experimented at dinner — I got pigeon pastry and Sharon danced with the belly dancers. Next to the restaurant, there was another club/restaurant with a great rooftop patio called "Kosa Bar." They had decent Moroccan red wine — Marrakesh generally was a lot less conservative.
The next day, post-pigeon, I wasn't feeling great but we kept the plan for the Medina tour. The Medina tour turned into the "Lantern Quest" as we spent the day walking around the maze stopping at Lantern places. Generally not as interesting as the Fes Medina and much more annoying as motorbikes are allowed and passing by you constantly. It is also flat — better for walking but easier to get disoriented.
After the Lantern purchase, we came to the big square of chaos called "Jemaa el-Fna" — people hawking things and charming cobras — which was appealing compared to looking at more Lanterns. We then finished the tour mostly trying to avoid people we had already talked to about buying lanterns, or other Lantern vendors who had heard about the Lantern Quest.
On our final night we went to the La Mamounia hotel — which has been named one of the best hotels in the world several times. Initially we couldn't get in because I didn't meet the dress code — long trousers required. So after returning to the Riad and changing we returned for a snack. Spectacular Arabic architecture and gardens. A surprising amount of the hotel and grounds were open to wander around.
"The Medina tour turned into the 'Lantern Quest.' We spent the day walking around the maze stopping at Lantern places — then trying to avoid every vendor who had heard about the Lantern Quest."